No feriado de 07 de setembro, fomos ao Parque Estadual dos Três Picos, localizado entre Teresópolis e Nova Friburgo, ambos municípios centro-norte, do estado do Rio de Janeiro.
Esta parte do Rio é famosa pelo clima frio e a ocorrência de geadas durante o inverno.
Parte da fama vem também, por sua colonização suíça ocorrida no século XIX. Os colonos foram atraídos pelo rei Dom João VI, com o interesse de europeizar a região da serra fluminense.
Atualmente é uma localidade repleta de possibilidade de trilhas e vias de escalada, mas que também oferece atrações mais turísticas, como a Pedra do Cão Sentado por exemplo.
Um pouco sobre esta parte do Parque Estadual dos Três Picos:
Criado no dia mundial do meio ambiente, em 05 de junho de 2002, o parque também é conhecido como Salinas.
É famoso por suas vias de escalada de longo percurso em paredes e proteções afastadas, oferecendo assim um estilo único e técnico, o que lhe conferiu a fama de “Estilo Salinas” entre os escaladores.
Para quem é praticante de escalada, esse é um parque de diversões cheio de atrações, sendo a mais famosa, a via de escalada da face leste do Pico Maior, aberta em 1974 e classificada como 5º grau.
Seu camping leva o nome de Vale dos Deuses e situa-se a uma altitude aproximada de 1.700m.
Por ser cercado de montanhas, é comum fazer frio durante a noite, mesmo não estando no inverno.
Nas duas noites que ficamos acampados no parque, tivemos temperaturas pouco abaixo de 0°C, o que congelou a umidade externa das barracas e a vegetação ao redor. Então previna-se para o frio!
O camping é bem estruturado, organizado e também é um ponto estratégico, pois é possível deixar o acampamento montado e realizar seu roteiro sem peso nas costas.
Como estrutura, possui fogão a lenha, espaço com pias, banheiros, chuveiros (água fria), uma área reservada para fogueira e claro, um ótimo espaço para acampar.
O melhor de tudo, é que não é cobrado! Isso mesmo, camping grátis! 😀
(Ok eu sei que “não existe almoço grátis” e que pagamos impostos rs.)
#Dica: Caso esteja disponível, também é possível se abrigar no quartinho onde divide uma parede com o fogão a lenha. Vai ter uma noite bem mais quente que a maioria!
“Nota de reconhecimento:
Os guardas-parques, mesmo com todas as dificuldades, por atuarem em um parque do governo do estado do RJ, dão seu sangue e suor.
Chega quase a ser um trabalho voluntário e de amor ao parque, que também consideram como uma morada, já que muitos cresceram brincando por ali.É comum tirarem de seus bolsos para arcar com o local. Posso citar como exemplo, o uso de suas próprias motos no monitoramento, combustível ou mesmo pequenas manutenções.
Tudo isso deveria ser repassado pelo Estado, mas…sabemos como são as coisas né?
Todas as trilhas, são muito bem demarcadas e conservadas e o uso de GPS, bússola etc, é totalmente desnecessário. Porém assim mesmo levamos GPS, apenas para termos uma base das distâncias e tempo aproximado de caminhadas.
Foto em 360° do camping durante a noite:
Acampamento Vale dos Deuses – Parque Estadual dos Três Picos – Spherical Image – RICOH THETA
Como chegar ao Camping do Vale dos Deuses?
Antes de mais nada, saiba que não é permitido carros no camping.
Então precisará seguir a pé desde um bolsão de estacionamento, que nada mais é que uma área gramada, no cotovelo da estrada, que leva até ao camping do Vale dos Deuses.
Do bolsão ao camping, é uma caminhada em torno de 1h.
Até o local de estacionamento, é possível chegar sem grandes dificuldades com carro convencional. Fica a exatamente 1,5km de distância da “Pousada dos Paula“, bastando apenas, continuar seguindo a estrada.
Também é possível acampar na Pousada dos Paula, com preço de R$ 45/pessoa, que inclui banho quente, um caldo delicioso, acompanhado de sobremesa, fora o café da manhã incluso.
Mas se preferir, também pode reservar um quarto.
Passamos nossa última noite por lá e valeu a pena! #recomendo!
Ainda sobre o estacionamento, se o bolsão de estiver lotado, também é possível deixar na pousada “Rancho Três Picos”, pagando um valor em torno de R$ 20.
Se preferir essa opção, precisará retornar um pouco e adentrar ao rancho. No mapa mais abaixo, você conseguirá observar com mais facilidade.
Mapa do bolsão de estacionamento:
Também é possível deixar o carro no camping / refúgio “República Três Picos”, economizando assim, cerca de 30 minutos de caminhada (recomendado 4×4 para chegar).
+ Sobre o parque e suas atrações:
“Não posso deixar de agradecer ao amigo Francisco de Assis, do blog “Chico Trekking”, que ajudou com dicas de segurança e informações sobre o parque. Você pode ler seu relato, sobre a Travessia do Vale dos Deuses ao Vale do Frade clicando aqui!”
Segundo o Wikiparques, o Três Picos é o maior parque estadual do Rio de Janeiro e seu nome é um tanto óbvio, pois é muito fácil de identificar devido aos três picos que estão lado a lado, sendo eles o “Pico Menor” (2.315m), “Pico Médio” (2.361m) e o “Pico Maior” (2.366m).
Também são conhecidos como “Três Picos de Friburgo” e o Pico Maior é o ponto culminante da Serra do Mar.
Próximo à formação dos três picos, encontra-se o rochedo chamado de “Capacete” (+/- 2250m) e assim como os Três Picos, seu nome também é óbvio, pois tem um formato arredondado e lembra um capacete.
Seu acesso é feito pela “Trilha Rodolfo Chermont”, bem demarcada, mas que não chegamos a visitar. Leva esse nome, pois é a via de escalada mais protegida e usada para escalada do Capacete.
Do alto do Capacete, e possível fazer rapel e a via preferida para essa atividade é a Sérgio Jacob, pois é mais livre e oferece paradas duplas a cada 25m.
A altitude do ponto onde acaba a trilha e começa a via Rodolfo Chermont é de +/- 2053m.
Como o Pico Menor e Médio, são cumes de uma mesma formação, dependendo da distância que você os observar, quase nem vai notar que são dois cumes.
Você até nota que são três Picos, porém o Pico Maior e Médio são mais evidentes, bem como o Capacete que também chama a atenção. (Exemplo disso, é avistando-os da Serra do Órgãos).
Três Picos Visto do Castelos do Açu, na Serra dos Órgãos
“Planejando conhecer a Serra dos Órgãos? Então leia também o nosso relato sobre a Travessia Petrópolis x Teresópolis, carinhosamente conhecida como Petro x Terê.”
Além das formações mencionadas acima, nas imediações do camping, também encontra-se uma formação curiosa, chamada de “Caixa de Fósforo (+/- 1800m)”, é um tanto geométrica e lembra uma caixa.
Trata-se de uma rocha de 10m de altura equilibrada na beirada de um penhasco e possui via de escalada.
Lá também tem o “Cabeça de Dragão” (+/- 2080m), que diferente das outras formações que mencionei, o nome já não é tão óbvio assim.
Sinceramente, não consegui enxergar uma cabeça de dragão nesta formação. Porém, é um local fantástico para se apreciar o nascer e o pôr do sol!
Conforme mencionei mais acima, sobre o relato do amigo Chico, é possível fazer a travessia que segue do Vale dos Deuses ao Vale do Frade, onde encontra-se a Cachoeira do Frade.
Esta cachoeira tem acesso fácil pela estrada RJ-130, então se acabar optando em apenas fazer os ataques aos picos e depois apenas visitar a cachoeira, também é possível.
Agora, se você pretende fazer a travessia do vale dos Deuses ao Vale do Frade, o ideal é não ir de carro, pois complica a logística com relação ao local onde deixá-lo e buscá-lo após a conclusão.
Mas se mesmo assim preferir ir de carro, sugiro que entre em contato com algum estabelecimento, como o Hotel Fazenda Rio dos Frade, que fica localizado próximo ao final da travessia.
Desta forma, poderá negociar deixar o carro e ou obter indicação de alguém que possa guardar e fazer seu transporte até próximo ao camping. (Não tive sucesso nessa questão, então se fizer, boa sorte!)
Bom, vamos ao relato! 🙂
O resumo do que fizemos foi o seguinte:
- Nascer do Sol na Cabeça do Dragão – Trajeto de 1h de ida;
- Trilha para o Pico Menor e Médio – Trajeto em torno de 3h até o Pico Menor e cerca de 15 minutos do Menor para o Médio;
- Trilha para a Caixa de Fósforo – Trajeto de 1h de ida.
Tracklog gerado das atividades:
Caso queira ver todas as fotos que tiramos lá, acesse nosso álbum no flickr!
1º dia – 07 de setembro de 2017
Fomos em 12 pessoas para o Parque Estadual dos Três Picos.
Uma parte saiu de São Paulo, outra do interior do Estado, uma parte havia seguido na véspera para o Rio de Janeiro e outra parte, saiu do interior de Minas Gerais.
Eram cerca de 3h30 quando Denny chegou em minha casa para nos buscar. Isso também inclui ao nosso amigo Edmar, que veio à noite direto do trabalho para nossa casa, a fim de descansar um pouco antes da viagem.
Viajaríamos no carro do Edmar, mas ele estava com problemas na roda do carro envolvendo parafusos, então fomos com o Denny.
Combinamos com a Marcia e a Manu, um ponto de encontro na estrada, para tomarmos um café e despacharmos o Edmar para o carro delas.
As duas saíram de Santa Barbara do Oeste cortando pela Rodovia Dom Pedro até chegar à Rodovia Presidente Dutra.
Após café tomado e Ed despachado, seguimos viagem com trânsito bastante livre e paramos para almoçar em Bom Sucesso-RJ, por volta de umas 12h30.
No restaurante encontramos com mais três amigas, que haviam sido convidadas pelo Denny, sendo elas a Raquel, Beatriz e Fernanda, que haviam seguido para o Rio de Janeiro na noite do dia 6 de setembro.
Depois de estômago forrado, era hora de continuarmos nossa viagem.
Fizemos uma rápida parada na Pousada dos Paula, para conversarmos com Pedro, proprietário da pousada, sobre como faríamos o resgate e locais onde deixaríamos os carros, pois inicialmente planejávamos fazer a travessia do Vale dos Deuses ao Vale do Frade.
Nos foi recomendado, que ao menos dois de nós que estava com carro, descesse do parque no dia seguinte, para que Pedro, indicasse o caminho até a casa de um amigo, que mora próximo ao final da travessia.
Daí depois, seria preciso retornar ao parque para realizarmos a caminhada ao Vale do Frade, que incluiria passar pela Caixa de Fósforo no caminho.
Depois de tudo combinado, era hora de seguir para o estacionamento, colocar as mochilas nas costas e subir rumo ao Camping Vale dos Deuses. Caminhada essa, que teve início às 14h35.
Vídeo resumo:
Após 1h de subida, chegamos ao Camping do vale dos Deuses.
Tratamos logo de escolher um local para montar nossas barracas e tirar o resto do dia para descanso. Exceto apenas o Denny e a Raquel que resolveram subir até o Cabeça de Dragão para apreciarem o pôr do sol.
Por volta das 17h10, chegaram os nossos três amigos restantes, sendo o Guto, Vânia e seu irmão Luan.
Conforme a noite chegava, a temperatura caía mais e mais e alguns foram dormir logo após o jantar, outros ficaram ainda ao pé da fogueira.
Guto havia levado uma rede para dormir, mas com o frio do lugar ele preferiu se abrigar no quartinho, que faz parede com o fogão a lenha. Se deu bem!
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2° Dia – 08 de setembro de 2017
Levantamos às 3h30 para ver o nascer do sol no Cabeça de Dragão.
Nosso plano para o dia, era que após assistirmos ao nascer do sol, seguíssemos para a trilha do Pico Menor e Médio.
O céu estava estrelado, mas com algumas nuvens e nossas barracas, bem como a vegetação ao redor, estavam com gelo. Sinal que a temperatura caiu abaixo dos 0º C.
Após tudo arrumado, às 3h40 partimos para trilha, levando apenas 1h desde o acampamento até o topo do Cabeça de Dragão.
Lá ficamos aguardando o nascer do sol para contemplar e aproveitamos para tomar nosso café da manhã por lá.
Feito isso, tiramos muitas fotos e depois voltamos ao camping, pois precisava pegar algumas coisas antes de seguirmos para a trilha do Pico Menor e Médio.
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Pico Cabeça de Dragão – Parque Estadual dos Três Picos – Spherical Image – RICOH THETA
Já fazia calor, eram quase 8h da manhã e locais que ainda não recebiam raios de sol, continuavam congelados.
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Depois de todos reunidos no camping e um breve descanso, peguei a corda na barraca, que a princípio seria usada entre o Pico Menor e Médio e partimos para a trilha às 8h50!
O trajeto para o Pico Menor, é de aproximadamente 3h desde o camping do Vale dos Deuses.
Para isso, precisa sair pela porteira do camping e descer pela estrada um trecho até chegar onde existe uma concentração de Araucárias.
O ponto de referência para a entrada da trilha, é uma casa / abrigo na cor rosa.
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Deste ponto em diante a trilha segue sentido sul, tendo uma leve subida no início.
No decorrer da trilha, também há uma placa de sinalização, numa bifurcação indicando a direção do Pico Menor e Face Leste. Então mantenha a direção sentido Pico Menor!
A trilha segue por ao menos duas horas de subida, em mata mais densa, o que ajuda durante dias bem quentes.
Também há trechos de escalaminhadas, mas com o apoio de raízes nas rochas.
Na última hora de caminhada, começam os trechos mais expostos, mas nada muito complicado e atualmente existe uma via ferrata (degraus de ferro na rocha), que ajudam na subida do trecho, que antes era o mais difícil.
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Como num grupo grande, nem todos andam na mesma velocidade, alguns fizeram o trajeto até o Pico Menor em 3h e outros em até 3h30.
Ficamos um bom tempo lá em cima, comemos, tiramos fotos, e teve até alguns que tiraram um cochilo!
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Foto em 360° do Pico Menor
Pico Menor – Parque Estadual dos Três Picos – Spherical Image – RICOH THETA
Por volta das 13h40, começamos a caminhada para o Pico Médio.
É preciso descer um trecho de rocha exposta logo no início, porém nada complicado, pois existe uma corda fixa como apoio.
Esta corda não é muito confiável, mas também havia uma outra de um grupo, que havia seguido para o Pico Menor antes de nós e que nos autorizou utilizá-la.
Seguindo orientações do amigo Chico, eu também havia levado corda, porém acabou não sendo necessária, já que na descida utilizamos a corda do outro grupo.
#Dica: É recomendado que se leve ao menos 30m de corda por segurança.
Na volta, é possível subir com boa aderência nas rochas e a corda fixa do local, mesmo em condições não muito boas, ajuda como “apoio moral” e quase não é preciso segurá-la.
São cerca de 15 minutos desde o Pico Menor até o topo do Pico Médio. Subida íngreme, mas sem grandes dificuldades.
Algumas de nossas amigas, preferiram ficar no Pico Menor descansando e curtindo o visual por lá.
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Foto em 360° do Pico Médio
Pico Médio – Parque Estadual dos Três Picos – Spherical Image – RICOH THETA
Do alto do Pico Médio, vimos como era o percurso da travessia para o Vale do Frade.
Como já tinha lido no relato do Chico, sabia que boa parte do trajeto era por estrada de terra.
Acabamos concluindo, que não valeria a pena fazer a travessia. Alguns ficaram meio desanimados ao verem que andariam em estrada de terra.
Também tinha a questão da logística, pois após voltar ao camping nesse dia, ainda seria preciso descer até a Pousada dos Paula, seguir de carro até a casa de um amigo do Pedro (dono da Pousada), para deixarmos os carros perto do final da travessia e depois retornar ao ao camping, para no dia seguinte fazer a travessia.
Ou seja, muito esforço para pouca coisa…
Por isso aconselho fazer a travessia, somente quem for sem carro ou conseguir fechar algum esquema com um estabelecimento, ou morador próximo ao final da travessia.
3° Dia – 09 de setembro de 2017
Esse foi o nosso último dia no Parque Estadual dos Três Picos.
Levantamos cedo como de costume e após tomarmos nosso café da manhã, às 8h40 partimos rumo à Rocha Caixa De fósforo, numa caminhada de aproximadamente 1h de duração.
O trajeto é o mesmo que segue para o Vale do Frade, porém é preciso adentrar a bifurcação à esquerda, onde há sinalização.
A trilha segue bem aberta e com vegetação densa ao redor, o que é bom em dias ensolarados!
Para chegar até a da Rocha Caixa de Fósforo, existe uma corrente para ajudar a subir e também uma parte exposta, que oferece apoio através de raízes.
Existe via de escalada na rocha Caixa de Fósforo e algumas pessoas costumam subi-la e praticar rapel.
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Foto 360° de Caixa de Fósforo
Caixa de Fósforo – Parque Estadual dos Três Picos – Spherical Image – RICOH THETA
Após voltarmos ao acampamento, desmontamos tudo e às 13h partimos para a Pousada dos Paula.
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Tínhamos decidido que visitaríamos a Pedra do Cão Sentado e Beatriz, Raquel e Fernanda, decidiram que seguiriam para o Rio de Janeiro.
Enquanto estávamos na Pousada, esperávamos as garotas passarem para se despedirem, mas o tempo foi passando e nada delas, até que apareceu a Beatriz, dando a notícia de que a bateria do carro da Raquel, havia descarregado.
Denny subiu com a Beatriz para tentar ajudar, mas devido a posição em que o carro se encontrava, não teve sucesso.
Voltei lá com o Luan e a Beatriz para tentar outras alternativas bem como testar a chupeta com o carro da Márcia.
Chegando lá, havia um outro carro tentando a chupeta, mas sem sucesso também!
Tentei com o carro da Márcia, mas devido a posição do carro e comprimento do cabo, sem sucesso também.
Até que chegou um jipeiro, ele tinha um cabo maior e fez a ligação. Deixamos recarregando por uns dois minutos e o carro pegou!
Voltamos à pousada, porém já estava tarde para seguirmos até a Pedra do Cão Sentado. De qualquer forma, todo o feriado já tinha valido a pena!
Existem muitas opções de trilhas na região e com certeza volto lá para conhecer!
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oi Rodrigo. Obrigada por deixar um relato tao bem detalhado pois ha pouca informação no site oficial. Não consegui nem descobrir se precisa fazer reserva pra acampar dentro do parque no Vale dos Deuses . Vcs fizeram reserva ou eh so ir chegando? E tem horario pra entrada do parque? Li um relato que a pessoa chegou as 23hs . Valew.
Oi Marina! Tudo bem?
Quando fomos, não fizemos reserva não.
De qualquer modo, como já faz quase dois anos que fomos, vale a pena entrar em contato para confirmar.
Mas eu acredito que esteja igual, pois a área de acampamento é bem ampla.
Também é possível acampar na “República Três Picos”, pouco antes da última subida em direção ao parque, que é o último trecho até onde se chega de carro baixo.
Espero ter ajudado 🙂
Grande abraço!