No feriado da consciência negra, decidimos realizar 2 travessias, sendo a da Serra Negra e a do Rancho Caído.
Tracklog da travessia:
O percurso planejado era realizar a subida pela trilha da Serra Negra chegando até o antigo Abrigo Alsene no segundo dia, para então iniciar a travessia do Rancho Caído devidamente autorizado, porém tivemos alguns percalços no caminho que poderá ler ou assistir a seguir 🙂
Vídeo resumo:
Você também pode ver todas as fotos desse percurso aqui
Saímos de São Paulo às 5h10 e chegamos na praça da Vila de Maromba por volta das 10h15.
Enquanto descarregávamos o carro e nos arrumávamos, conhecemos Raquel, proprietária de um camping na vila.
Conversamos com ela durante um tempo, negociamos um valor de camping para nosso pernoite no dia da volta e também um possível resgate no Vale das Cruzes.
Bruna havia esquecido seu boné e ainda conseguiu um chapéu emprestado com Raquel para ter uma proteção contra o sol.
Começamos nossa caminhada às 10h45 seguindo rua acima.
Nesse trecho do trajeto não tem erro, basta ir seguindo a rua até um momento em que terá uma bifurcação. À sua frente estará uma rua inclinada que leva à Cachoeira do Escorrega, à direita você avistará uma ponte de madeira passando sobre o Rio Preto, é para essa direção que deve-se seguir.
Seguimos pela trilha, até chegarmos em uma propriedade particular, logo encontramos um cercado à esquerda, tiramos dúvidas com um morador se a trilha seguia por ali mesmo e após confirmação, atravessamos a cerca e seguimos morro acima.
Posso dizer que essa é uma trilha que não faltam pontos de água, então se você estiver com pelo menos 1L ou 2L de água, poderá ir se reabastecendo pelo caminho.
São pelo menos 8 pontos de água em todo o percurso, sem contar algumas passagens por rios.
Após passar pelo primeiro ponto de água, não demora muito até que se chega à crista da serra (12h), isso não quer dizer que o terreno será plano daqui em diante.
Iniciamos nossa caminhada em +/- 1205m de altitude, sendo o ponto mais alto desse primeiro dia, 2187m de altitude, ou seja, uma elevação de quase 1000m.
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Após atingirmos o ponto mais alto, começou o trecho de descida, seguimos rente a um cercado que nos levaria até a pousada do Sr. José Rangel (Pousada Serra Negra), porém não parecia ser uma trilha, ou um caminho, então fomos descendo em direção à rua de terra que era possível avistar e que nos levaria ao mesmo destino.
Alguns metros do portão da pousada, existe uma porteira na cerca à direita, atravesse essa porteira e siga pelo terreno, logo avistará à esquerda uma passagem por cima do córrego e a trilha que seguirá à direita e subindo.
Já eram aproximadamente 17h30 quando chegamos à pousada, fomos recebidos pela proprietária que é esposa do José Rangel, tentamos dar uma desculpa informando que seguiríamos para Garganta do Registro, porém a mesma informou que estávamos na direção oposta, nesse momento, resolvi perguntar sobre as Cabanas, meio como se estivesse perdido, ela falou das Cabanas do Aiuroca, concordei que era essa cabana e ela também comentou sobre o Alsene e alertou que o trajeto passa dentro do Parque e que era passível de multa. Informei que seguiríamos até as cabanas, acamparíamos, mas seguiríamos a trilha que segue externa ao parque para chegarmos no Alsene.
Também perguntei se o Marcelo Rangel, que já foi nosso guia no Agulhas Negras era filho do José Rangel, ela confirmou e então o clima ficou mais leve, dando a sensação de que éramos mais conhecidos, ela nos deu as coordenadas e seguimos o trajeto, rumo às cabanas.
Chegamos nas Cabanas Cabeceiras do Aiuroca às 20h, andamos 18,3km até aqui.
A noite estava calma, sem frio e deu pra tomar um banho, meio forçado pela Rosana, mas deu hehe.
Depois disso fizemos nossa janta, discutimos sobre qual horário deveríamos acordar para seguir o trajeto até o Alsene, pelos calculos dariam cerca de 6h de caminhada, então decidimos acordar às 4h30 para sairmos às 5h.
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Após atravessar o Rio Aiuroca na região das cabanas, existe uma trilha bem aberta, que antigamente era uma estrada, inclusive há vestígios de uma ponte nesse trecho do rio, pois há um agrupamento de pedras que serviram de base para ponte, porém não era esse o nosso trajeto definido.
Mas falarei um pouco desse trecho que não seguimos:
Se você pretende chegar rápido no Alsene, siga por esse trajeto bem aberto, pois chegará em seu destino em cerca de 2h, esse trecho está demarcado no tracklog como “Trilha segue para Alsene”.
O trajeto que havíamos definido era outro, como estava escuro ainda, tivemos dificuldades em localizar a trilha, perdemos quase 1h até que nos achamos.
Resolvi que deveríamos seguir rio acima, “ziguezagueando” até nos encontrarmos com a trilha que estava no tracklog que nos auxiliava.
Infelizmente a precisão do GPS do autor do tracklog que nos baseávamos, não era muito boa e dava uma divergência de 30m, isso acabou nos confundindo em alguns pontos.
Enfim, seguindo pelo rio, em um dado momento, avistei uma abertura de trilha na margem esquerda, atravessei, segui para confirmar o trajeto, depois chamei o restante do grupo.
Subindo por essa trilha, encontramos uma outra bem mais demarcada, que possivelmente vinha da direção das Cabanas, ou seja, em algum ponto próximo às cabanas, existe a entrada pra essa trilha.
Até tentei localizar, quando estava por lá, mas após passar por umas colmeias desativadas, a mata se fechava, como ainda era escuro, não tinha noção se a trilha era apenas até as colmeias e se fechava ali, ou se havia a continuação e a mata havia tomado conta.
Se por acaso, você que está lendo esse post, passar por lá, procure a trilha no morro próximo às cabanas, bem provavelmente após essas colmeias desativadas, a trilha continue por ali.
Continuamos nosso caminho, agora seguindo por trilha bem demarcada, por vezes foi preciso cruzar o rio novamente, como pode ser visto no tracklog.
Não demorou muito, logo avistamos a Cachoeira do Mané Emídio entre a vegetação.
Às 6h50 chegamos em uma área de pasto que existe um abrigo, onde se tem uma vista mais aberta para a cachoeira.
Seguimos pelo descampado / pasto meio que em direção à cachoeira e a trilha toma à direita e sobe até a crista.
Confesso que até aqui a paisagem deste percurso não tinha valido a pena, pois apenas havíamos enfrentado fortes subidas e vegetação alta em boa parte do trajeto.
Mas assim que se avista a Cachoeira do Mané Emídio, esse “passeio” vale muito a pena.
Ao chegar na crista desse morro (8h50), já é possível avistar a cabeceira da Cachoeira do Aiuroca e o Pico das Agulhas negras ao fundo.
É uma vista e tanto, que dá um certo gosto de vitória.
Seguindo pelo caminho e por volta das 9h15 chegamos no alto da cachoeira do Aiuroca.
Como o tempo limite do Parque para iniciar a travessia do Rancho Caído é até às 10h, decidimos prosseguir sem passar pela portaria, desta forma emendamos a travessia da Serra Negra nesse trecho e seguimos em direção à formação rochosa “Ovos de Galinha”.
Durante o trajeto parei duas ou três vezes para vomitar. Eu não havia ingerido nada, apenas água nesta manhã, mas talvez pelo desgaste da travessia ou até mesmo algo que estivesse em alguma água que bebi no percurso do dia anterior, tenha me feito mal, mas pelo menos, fiquei bem depois disso.
Durante o trajeto, passamos por uma formação rochosa interessante, pois se assemelhava à uma crista de galo, ou seja, você passa pelos Ovos de Galinha e também pela Crista de um Galo rs rs.
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O percurso desde a cachoeira do Aiuroca até chegarmos no ponto conhecido como Rancho Caído é bem tranquilo, sem subidas muito íngremes.
Vale a pena fazer uma pausa na cachoeira para tomar um banho, pois há tempo suficiente para isso.
Infelizmente, não fizemos essa parada, pois estávamos com medo de nos depararmos com algum fiscal do parque na região, haja visto que seguimos sem passar pela portaria.
Chegamos ao “Rancho Caído” por volta das 12h30.
Não existe rancho nenhum nesse local, mas acredito que leve esse nome devido a área de camping ser um cercado por rochas e não haver um teto.
Até onde sei, é proibido fazer fogueiras no Parque Nacional do Itatiaia, mas encontramos vestígios de fogueira no Rancho Caído, por sorte, a pessoa que a fez se preocupou em tomar cuidado com a vegetação e fez numa rocha.
Após acampamento montado, às 13h30 estávamos fazendo um merecido almoço, pois ninguém havia se alimentado de forma decente desde a saída das Cabanas Cabeceira do Aiuroca.
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Mais tarde, por volta das 14h30, um outro grupo chegou ao local. Aqui conhecemos o Bruno, morador de Itamonte-MG, que estava liderando.
Informamos para ele sobre a outra área de camping no bambuzal e mais tarde conversamos sobre os nossos trajetos e trocamos algumas experiências.
Bruno e seu grupo, haviam iniciado o percurso às 8h30 desde a Portaria do PNI, ou seja, se tivéssemos ido para a portaria, não teríamos conseguido entrar devido ao limite do horário, haja visto que às 9h15 estávamos na Cachoeira do Aiuroca.
Também conhecemos um rapaz do Canadá que estava fazendo a travessia. Renan e eu conversamos um pouco com ele, mesmo nosso inglês sendo bem ruim, mas o canadense entendia um pouco de português, pois estava morando no Rio de Janeiro há um ano e meio com sua esposa.
Ambos vieram ao país a trabalho, pois atuam no comitê das olimpíadas de 2016.
Um pouco mais tarde, conversamos com Bruno e nos mostrou o mapa que estava seguindo.
Seu trajeto era diferente do que faríamos, ele iria fazer o percurso que leva para a Cachoeira do Escorrega em Maromba, e nós íamos para o Vale das Cruzes, que fica cerca de 8km da Vila de Maromba.
Então decidimos unir nossos grupos para seguirmos para a cachoeira do escorrega no início da manhã do dia 22.
E assim foi, por volta das 8h20 do dia 22, iniciamos nossa caminhada final.
Nosso acampamento no Rancho Caído estava na altitude de aproximadamente 2300m, então deste trecho em diante, basicamente só tivemos descidas.
Passamos por algumas formações rochosas interessantes, uma delas chamou minha atenção, pois a rocha parecia uma mão mostrando o dedo do meio rs rs.
Ao passarmos pelo mirante que dá vista à Visconde de Mauá, é possível ver o Pico da Pedra Selada em boa parte do trajeto de descida.
Cerca de 2,8km depois, chegamos à bifurcação que divide os percursos, sendo à direita leva ao Vale das Cruzes e à esquerda para Maromba.
Isso não é bem demarcado, foi preciso compararmos o mapa que o Bruno tinha, com o mapa do GPS para visualizarmos melhor o ponto de bifurcação no Tracklog.
Por volta das 10h, durante o percurso, Bruno reclamou de bolhas nos pés, então fizemos uma parada para tratarmos isso. Colocamos uma gaze dobrada sobre a bolha, fixamos com fita micropore, mas deixando a região da bolha apenas com a gaze, para haver melhor transpiração e conforto.
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Às 12h, chegamos no fim da trilha.
Esse ponto é fácil de se reconhecer, pois existe uma casa e uma estrada de terra que leva direto para a Cachoeira do Escorrega.
Descansamos um pouco e continuamos.
Cerca de 600m à frente, nos deparamos com um fiscal do parque, já era um senhor, andava com dificuldades e com ajuda de uma bengala.
Ele nos parou, perguntou quem era responsável pelo grupo e se tínhamos autorização.
Bruno se apresentou como responsável, mostrou a autorização, o fiscal apenas anotou seu nome, não fez qualquer confirmação via rádio etc e nos liberou.
Ou seja, tivemos sorte duas vezes quando escolhemos não passar pela portaria. Ainda bem que conhecemos o Bruno e possuía autorização :).
Mais 600m adiante, chegamos à trilha que dá acesso à cachoeira do escorrega, também pode-se seguir pela rua, que chegará à porteira onde fica a cachoeira. O Local é bastante frequentado por turistas, pois existem muitas pousadas e campings na região.
Era hora do merecido banho \o/
Assim que deixei a mochila no chão, tirei a camiseta, as pernas da calça e já fui pro tobogã de pedra.
É um verdadeiro parque aquático da natureza, até o Renan que não sabe nadar desceu, Bruno também não sabe nadar, mas foi bem e não houve problema.
Quando Rosana decidiu ir, aí lascou rs rs. Dei algumas recomendações dizendo:
– Não se desespere, não se debata e prenda a respiração ao cair na água, pois eu vou levar você até a borda. Se você se debater e se desesperar, vai afogar nós dois!
Desci na frente e a esperei perto de onde achei que ela sairia, mas saiu em um lugar uns 2m de mim, nadei e tratei de ir levando para a borda, mas nessa hora, duas das três recomendações que fiz, nem passava pela cabeça dela, ficava se debatendo e desesperada, e quase me afogou haha, mas enfim, consegui levar para a borda, mas já quase me desesperando com medo de me afogar e ela se afogar.
Quando chegamos um rapaz estava indo ajudar, mas já não era preciso.
Depois disso, apenas tiramos fotos e ficamos no raso.
Nos despedimos de Bruno e seus amigos, Rosana fez um tererê no cabelo, ficamos um pouco na lanchonete do Seu Geraldo comendo pastel e por volta das 14h fomos embora.
Passamos no camping da Raquel por volta das 15h20 para tentar devolver o chapéu que havia emprestado para a Bruna, mas não havia ninguém, deixamos lá assim mesmo.
Resolvemos voltar para São Paulo, pois o clima estava mudando e parecia que ia chover, logo não valeria a pena ficar por lá e ainda evitaríamos o trânsito do fim de feriado.
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Dicas:
– Leve clorin para a água, pois apesar de algumas placas dizerem que a água é potável, em alguns pontos não é bom arriscar.
– Pegue autorização para fazer Rancho Caído e passe pela portaria do Parque, pois há fiscalização no final do trajeto, perto da Cachoeira do Escorrega.
– Tome um banho na cachoeira do Aiuroca ou na Mané Emídio, ou nas duas. Não fizemos isso, mas dava tempo mais que suficiente, haja visto que emendamos as travessias.
– Se for seguir as duas dicas anteriores acima, siga esse tracklog no trecho da Cachoeira do Aiuroca:
http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=8055503 (Ponto – A direita sair da trilha)
– Fique atento para o horário limite das 10h do parque.
Da cachoeira do Aiuroca até a Portaria, dá entre 2h até 4h de caminhada, variando do ritmo de cada um.
– Se for seguir para o Alsene fora dos limites do parque, atente-se para a trilha mais aberta demarcada no tracklog, nesse caso não passará pela Cachoeira Mené Emídio, ou Aiuroca. Este trecho está demarcado no tracklog como “Trilha segue para Alsene”.
– Se for para o Vale das Cruzes e por acaso precisar fechar resgate com alguém, é possível negociar com algum morador local da Vila de Maromba.
– Se for possível ficar mais um dia em Maromba, fique, pois há outras cachoeiras na região.
Fim 🙂
Leia também:
http://www.exploradores.com.br/pedra-do-altar-5-lagos-morro-do-couto-agulhas-negras-e-prateleiras/
http://www.exploradores.com.br/pico-das-agulhas-negras-e-prateleiras/
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